70th Infantry Brigade War Diary November 1940.
Source – The National Archives at the Public Record Office – File WO 176/304
A large-scale map of the Brigade’s operational area is filed with the War Diary and shows the locations of each of the Infantry detachments, from the 10th DLI’s northernmost Section-sized Coast Watching Post at Skagastrond on the East bank of the HUNAFLOI fjord, down through Blonduos, Reykerskoli and Bordeyri to their Battalion HQ at Borganes on the North bank of the BORGARFJORDUR and on to their Company position at Akranes on the Western edge of Hvalfjordur.
11th DLI was based at Alafoss.
1st TS had Platoons scattered in positions at some distance from its HQ at BALDURSHAGI, namely at SAUERBAER and Brautarholt to the North, Pingvellir to the North-East and Selfoss to the South-East (guarding the road and bridges to RAF KALDADARNES).
As indicated, Brigade HQ was also at Alafoss.
4th November 1940
“B” Company of 1st TS took over the coastal defence of Brautarholt from “B” Company of the 1st /5th West Yorkshire Regiment.
Preparations were made for a significant field firing exercise by 2 Companies of 11th DLI and 1 Troop of 386th Battery of the 143rd Field Regiment Royal Artillery to take place at the field firing range at KLEIFARVATN, a bleak lava-covered area South of Reykjavik.
In the event the Exercise was considered to have worked well but was temporarily suspended for other units due to the weather (severe cold and snow).
13th November 1940
Major-General Curtis, General Officer Commanding, and Brigadier Kirkup visited 11th DLI and 1st TS.
15th November 1940
Brigadier Kirkup visited 10th DLI’s HQ at Borganes – travelling by sea.
16th November 1940
The Brigadier toured the defences and inspected the 10th Battalion’s Camps.
A Guard, on duty at Brigade HQ at Alafoss fired at an intoxicated Icelander who had threatened him, resulting in an article appearing in a local anti-British newspaper.
17th – 19th November 1940
Brigadier Kirkup’s movements around his units were hampered by frozen roads – consequently some journeys were done by sea.
21st November 1940
The Field Firing exercises resumed at Kleifervatn.
Practice blackouts and Air Defence (P.A.D.) Exercises were held.
The Brigade continued to hold a dual role of coastal defence of the Western Sector and that of Alabaster Force’s Mobile Reserve:-
10th DLI was deployed entirely on coastal defence.
1st TS was defending Brautarholt with a detachment also stationed inland.
11th DLI continued to be stationed at Alafoss.
The Brigade was given orders to:-
Reconnoitre possible defensive routes to be able to counter any invasion.
Make provision for the roads to be mined and for Anti-Tank block construction to take place.
Make provision for controlling refugees.
Note the Code Words to be issued in case an invasion threat developed.
Ensure that the need had been identified to defend Iceland against 5th Column activity.
To help with the winter conditions the men of the Brigade were issued with Tropal coats.
An Appendix to the November War Diary consisted of a paper on early impressions of Iceland by a Brigade HQ Officer. While it is not by any means certain, this document was quite probably written by the Brigade Intelligence Officer. It runs to 3 pages, and, in view of the importance of understanding the situation in which the troops found themselves, it is reproduced below, verbatim.
70th Infantry Brigade. War Diary Nov.1940
“IMPRESSIONS OF ICELAND AND ITS PEOPLE”
The journey from ENGLAND to Iceland was enjoyed by one and all. A dead calm sea and ocean liners to transport us were luxuries beyond our most optimistic hopes and were in direct contrast to the experience of the 10th Bn The DLI who a month previously had been subjected to rough seas, cramped conditions and indifferent food. Brigade Headquarters were particularly fortunate in being transported in the EMPRESS OF AUSTRALIA and we have none but the happiest memories of our five days in this magnificent ship.
The ANTONIA, carrying the 1st Bn Tyneside Scottish and 11th Bn Durham L.I. kept in close touch throughout the voyage and we were escorted by the armed cruiser LARTITIA and two destroyers.
Our first impressions of ICELAND were gained under somewhat chaotic conditions due to the lack of organisation in the unloading of the ship. There were numerous thefts, and one precious bundle containing many of our comforts, a wireless set and a typewriter crashed on to the deck of the unloading steamer from a height of fifty feet. The sun was shining brilliantly as we stepped on to the quay at Reykjavik, but we were told to make the most of this strange phenomenon. The ensuing month roved the wisdom of this advice. Our first activity on landing was to change our English money into Icelandic currency, and this strange money proved surprisingly simple and in a short while we had grown accustomed to thinking in terms of Kronur and Aurar.
As the result of the German occupation of the Northern European ports the British trade routes to America had of necessity to be directed on a more Northerly course hence the strategic importance of Iceland and Great Britain’s prompt action in occupying the island in May 1940. This occupation was simply and solely a preventative measure and Iceland’s independence was not threatened by it. Had Germany been allowed to get there first the Icelanders might have had good cause to fear for their Independence.
Iceland is slightly larger than Ireland but its population is only 290,000 against the 4,000,000 of Ireland. A glance at the map will show that for purposes of defence Iceland is divided into what amounts to four different islands. The four sectors are composed as follows:-
Sector (i) Reykjavik and the neighbourhood surrounding the capital.
Sector (ii) The Hunafloi Sector comprising Reykerskoli, Blonduos, Bordeyri.
Sector (iii) Akureyri in the north.
Sector (iv) Seydisfjordur in the east.
Our next concern is to find out where we were stationed and if we would be with the 10th Durham L.I. who had formed our advance party.
The 10th Bn The Durham L.I. were occupying defences on the western sector of the island extending from Blonduos in the North to Akranes, some 15 miles north by sea from Reykjavik. With 1200 miles of coastline it is impossible to occupy it throughout nor was it necessary. Most of the coast is quite unsuitable for landing troops and only the important harbours, where the naval authorities considered the waters suitable were occupied. At the same time several coast watching posts were established along this coastline and manned by R.N. personnel who were in direct telephone communication with HQ. These latter posts carried six months reserve rations as, other than telephonic communication, they were completely cut off from the remainder of the British Forces for several months during the winter. The HUNAFLOI area in which Blonduos and the two Fiords in which Reykerskoli and Bordeyri were situated constituted the principal northerly points of defence and were garrisoned with a Rifle Coy and 2 Platoons together with C.D. (Coast defence) guns and field guns. The HQ of the 10th Bn Durham L.I. with HQ Coy and two Rifle Coys were established at Borgarnes. The remaining Coy was at Akranes. The selection of Borganes for the greater part of this Battalion was not from its tactical importance as a landing place but with the object of having a mobile reserve situated at a suitable point on the western sector for operating in any part it may be required.
On their arrival the 10th Bn The Durham L.I. had been quartered under canvas in a transit camp on the outskirts of Reykjavik and been nearly washed away in a terrific rainstorm. Even when they were established in Nissen Huts at their permanent destination their hardships and discomforts were not at an end as these were new camps consisting of bare huts and they were dependent on their own ingenuity for even the bare necessities of life. Although a mere 30 miles by sea from Reykjavik, Borganes is nearly twice that distance by road and this road is only possible to traverse in favourable weather. Thus all supplies from Reykjavik had to be shipped by coastal steamers, and this method of transport proved precarious in the extreme, and NAAFI (Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes – the British equivalent of the American P.X. or Post Exchange) stores and suchlike had a way of vanishing into thin air.
70th Infantry Brigade less 10th DLI were detailed to form the Force Mobile Reserve. Brigadier Kirkup took over from Brigadier Page, Commanding “Z” Force Canadians at Bruarland, Alafoss, about 10 miles N.E. of Reykjavik, the 11th Bn DLI occupied the camp vacated by the Royal Canadian Regiment a mile away and the 187 Fd Ambulance occupied an adjacent camp. The 1st Bn Tyneside Scottish occupied the camp at BALDURSHAGI vacated by the Fusiliers Mont Royale, 6 miles east of Reykjavik.
The first impressions of a newcomer to Iceland are not exactly favourable. The entire absence of trees and hedgerows give it a forbidding appearance and long stretches of rocks, stones and lava dust devoid of even the scantiest vegetation lend an added force in this impression. It is not till one had grown familiar with this unaccustomed austerity that one can appreciate the rugged grandeur of the snowcapped mountains and the lakes and fiords which are so abundant in the island. The absence of trees affected us in more ways than one and meant that every inch of timber had to be imported. Although the camps we took over had been previously occupied, we started from scratch as far as our comforts were concerned and timber, and where and how to get it occupied much of our thoughts and conversation. Our first weeks were a great opportunity for the handyman to prove his worth and a unit with an ingenious carpenter was indeed lucky. Examples of the ingenious craftsmen were soon apparent and extended over a wide variety of objects constructed to add to our comforts. Few of us realised previously that an army Blanket filled with wood shavings can make excellent upholstery for a chair, while the iron brackets of a Nissen Hut can serve a variety of purposes from curtain rods to fenders.
The aesthetic potentialities of a Nissen Hut are not immediately apparent, but here again much ingenuity was displayed in their decoration. Those units who were fortunate enough to possess an artist were, of course, at an advantage, but those who did not improvised with pictures from the illustrated papers and periodicals, and even when these were framed with coloured or silver paper they presented a bizarre effect. Improvisation was our watchword and if a certain article could not be procured the men set to work to construct an efficient substitute.
We were immediately subjected to an infinite variety of climatic conditions, mild days, snowy days, frosty days and windy days following one another in rapid succession. Through it all, however, the health of the troops remained excellent. The wind which at times reached a velocity of close to 100mph was the most difficult element to contend with, and caused several accidents. Another problem which confronted us was the almost entire absence of good roads and even those which had been passable at the outset soon deteriorated as a result of the unaccustomed amount of traffic with which they had to contend.
It was almost immediately apparent that we should have to rely on our own devices for our amusement. Only a small proportion of the Icelanders were definitely hostile to us and our cause, but a definite majority resented our presence on the island. They also were determined that their womenfolk would have nothing to do with us, and if any of them were seen talking to the troops they were liable to arrest.
The Icelander is tremendously proud of his independence, and he is furthermore a somewhat stubborn individual. It had become inculcated in his somewhat slow thinking brain that we had no chance of winning the war and he was determined not to show us hospitality, lest it should reach Hitler’s ears and react unfavourably on them when Germany was at length victorious. In the unlikely event of a British victory, the Icelander was convinced that we had Imperialistic aims with regard to his country. It was impossible at first to convince him that we had only occupied his country as a precautionary measure and that a German occupation would be infinitely less pleasant. Slowly, but surely, however, the Icelandic reserve melted and they adopted a more friendly attitude towards us, and this was particularly noticeable in the country districts where a number of our troops were shown the greatest kindness by the local people when they found themselves stranded in bad weather conditions.
A strange town presents a thrilling novelty to most men and the first visit to Reykjavik, ablaze with lights, was eagerly looked forward to by men who had not seen a lighted shop window for 15 months. The visit however was a disappointment. The lack of female companionship was felt acutely, the Icelandic beer proved hardly worthy of the magic name, and the shops and restaurants charged prices far in excess of the value of the wares sold. The majority returned to camp after their evening in Reykjavik resolved to spend their evenings in future in their own canteens where any resulting profits would be utilized for their own advantage.
Battalion Commanders forthwith arranged training schemes for platoons and companies and alternate indoor training schemes were drawn up for when the weather was unfavourable. In conjunction with a Battery of 143 Field Regiment who were attached to the 70th Infantry Brigade for operational purposes, Field Firing was carried out in the presence of the G.O.C. by both the 1st Bn Tyneside Scottish and 11th BN Durham L.I. at KLEIFARVATN. Advances were carried out by the troops under a barrage of shells from the 25 pounder guns.
Outdoor sport was often impracticable owing to unfavourable weather, but a number of Inter-Regimental, Battalion and Company football matches were played. The troops also had, for what was most of them, their first experience on skis. The constantly changing weather conditions however, hampered these operations. Walks were organised and some mild mountain climbing was attempted, and although we occasionally indulged in the soldier’s privilege of a good grouse, the short days passed quickly, while the long evenings were spent pleasantly in the canteens where there were plenty of good books to read and a variety of games to play.
To contact the author by e-mail with any queries, or to send information - click here.
